One Turkey, Many Decisions
Novel preparations for turkey (beer-butt, bacon-wrapped and of course, the turducken) abound, but even the most standard options and cooking choices present an array of possible endpoints — nearly all of which result in a delicious bird. No matter what you choose, it’ll turn out fine. It has every year since 1621, right? — SOPHIE BRICKMAN
The in-laws are pulling into the driveway. I need the fastest possible method.
Yes.
Late November
is gorgeous in
Sedona.
I'm fine with the
supermarket,
thanks.
My friends
nicknamed me
Alice Waters.
How much of
a locavore
are you?
Do you own
a shotgun?
How much
control do
you want over
seasoning?
ORGANIC
How much do
you care about
historical
accuracy?
Will you use
pan drippings
to make
gravy?
If your turkey is
pre-seasoned, you want to
control the saltiness of the
gravy or you love the taste of
game, leave it alone.
A salt rub will make the
meat juicier, with little
sacrifice in skin
crispness.
Sam Sifton, the Times’
former restaurant critic,
recommends brining leaner
birds. The brine will override
the flavor of the meat
slightly.
Are you
interested in
trying a new
cooking
technique?
Oh, indeed
I do.
Whichever bird you
choose, make sure
to give it enough
time to defrost —
sometimes as long
as a few days.
I am in
charge of this
bird.
AU NATURALE
SALT RUB
BRINE
BASTING
ADD BUTTER OR OIL
AIR DRY
For me,
that's a no.
Huge proponent.
I must carve
tableside.
Huh?
Sure.
My parka is
flame retardant.
Why not? Granny’s hip.
Maybe next year.
I’m ready to
roast.
A little
pre-seasoning
sounds good. I
have enough to
do as it is.
crispy skin
Seriously, on
Thanksgiving?
Self-basting turkeys
require the least from
you, but the meat is
often mushy and
flavorless. Pony up for
a better bird or hit the
drive-through.
If you brine, don’t stress
out over numbers of bay
leaves and juniper
berries. The jury is still
out on just how far
aromatics can penetrate
bird flesh.
I’d rather be
drinking than
whisking roux. I’ll
make gravy
ahead.
The word “natural”
on the label is pretty
much meaningless.
Look for an
“organic” bird
instead.
Of course.
The gravy is the
best part.
How much do
you like the
taste of
turkey?
How much
do you care
about a Norman
Rockwell
look?
It may look as if you sat on
it, but you’ll be done two
hours before everyone else
in America. Now get
started on your Black
Friday shopping list.
The traditional bird is in
some ways the hardest
to perfect. Putting ice
packs on the breast to
cool it before roasting
will help ensure that the
dark and white meat
reach doneness at the
same time.
Your perfectionism
is admirable. You
really want to take it
up a notch? Confit
those legs.
Truss your bird and it’ll
look great, but the breast
may overcook.
Are you
short on
time?
Would you
like to cook
outdoors?
See our recipe
from Jacques
Pépin.
Guess you’ll be
making stuffing on
the side. Add some
smoke chips to
your heat source if
you dare.
Please. I have planned
this meal for weeks. My
meat will be cooked
evenly and to
perfection.
Adventuresome.
But beware of
brining and frying.
The breast can
shoot off the
carcass when
water meets oil.
Overrated.
I can carve in the
kitchen.
under the skin. This will
separate the skin from the
moisture-releasing meat,
preserving some of the skin’s
tasty crunch.
for 48 hours in the fridge
to make the skin
shatteringly crisp.
the breast with stock
will make the meat
tender, but the skin will
be less crisp.
Elevating the bird on
a rack will help crisp
the bottom and make
basting easier.
and T-day is
tomorrow.
and I have two
days until the bird
is in the oven.
Fill in the
blank:
I care more
about
.....
Mmmm,
turkey.
Wait, does
turkey have a
taste?
This pilgrim is no purist.
I want to add some
moistness to the meat.
I serve maize at
every Thanksgiving
table. I like my meat
gamey and lean.
If you shot, killed
and dressed your
fowl you probably
don’t need help
making decisions
in any aspect of
your life.
The label doesn’t
mean no pesticides
or antibiotics, only
that it was uncaged.
Try organic.
KOSHER
(PRE-SALTED)
SELF-BASTING
OR INJECTED
FREE
RANGE
NATURAL
ROAST IT
WHOLE.
GRILL IT.
FRY IT.
STEAM IT.
juicy meat
WILD
HERITAGE
Then roast.
Cook the parts separately.
BUTTERFLY IT
SEPARATE THE DARK
AND LIGHT MEAT
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